We trooped to Azela, by Balay Dako the Antonio’s Group’s latest restaurant concept on a searing hot summer weekday, battling traffic in an area unfamiliar to us. Yet, the promise of excellent food was compelling enough to head to Ermita. Azela was still in soft opening status but had already been making waves in food circles, largely due to its ties to the iconic Balay Dako in Tagaytay—one of those establishments that manages to blend elegance, nostalgia, and polish without feeling too stuffy. Located in the Center Atrium of Robinsons Manila, Azela is a fast-casual concept, but don’t let that label fool you. What we found was a restaurant that wears its heritage with quiet confidence and makes a strong case for elevating Filipino food even in the most unlikely settings.
A Familiar Name with a New Rhythm
Azela is named after the grandmother of Chef Antonio “Tonyboy” Escalante, the founder and culinary genius behind the Antonio’s Group, under which Azela falls. Azela is an homage to the influence of a matriarch’s gastronomic legacy.
There’s a sense of deliberate care in the place—from the selection of dishes to the plateware, to the steady pace of service that defies the hurried tempo of mall dining.
The interiors are thoughtfully put together. It’s not grandiose; neither is it trying too hard to be rustic chic. It feels like the home of a well-traveled lola—familiar, comforting, but also with a touch of sophistication that says: “This is still Manila.”
Ambiance Anchored in Ease
What struck us most about Azela is its balance between accessibility and refinement. And, of course, Filipino food at its finest, particularly Negrense food.
Tables are spaced for comfort, not turnover. The lighting was flattering, soft, and easy on the eyes. No loud music blaring to force some fake ambiance. Instead, there was a steady hum—of conversation, of kitchen activity, of a place that knows what it is and doesn’t need to scream it. Service was excellent. Our server was warm, attentive, and knowledgeable without being pushy. There’s a genteel confidence in their rhythm, often missing in an age where everything (and everyone) is always in a rush.
Flavors that Feel Like Home (But Better)
If you’ve ever eaten at Balay Dako, you’ll recognize the DNA here—but Azela trims the pomp and focuses on approachability.
We ordered ensaladang mangga with bagoong for starters, as it was a long-time craving that got our taste buds excited for the mains.
Our mains consisted of some classic southern favorites: the homey warmth of sinigang na baboy, which reminded us of simpler days—the sourness of the soup balanced by the fresh vegetables and soft liempo;
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the crispy tawilis that brought back nostalgia from family outings, and when dipped in vinegar, explodes pleasantly in your mouth (note: tawilis availability is quite rare these days thanks to overfishing in Taal Lake, which led to the ban on fishing; so tawilis must now be farmed, and it tastes different); the creamy laing sa gata that made eating vegetables so much more exquisite (not to mention richer and more appetizing); and, of course, the bangus ala pobre, its rich garlicky and salty taste cutting a path through your palate that would otherwise be overwhelmed by the sinigang.
These dishes will always be staples on every Filipino family dining table, be it at home or at a restaurant.
As one would expect from a brand that falls under the Antonio’s Group, everything was exquisitely prepared, with the greatest care and the best ingredients. Think dining at your lola’s out in the province, celebrating a special occasion among family and close friends.
And, of course, we couldn’t leave without trying the halo-halo, given how searing hot the day was. We’re happy to report it avoided the pitfall of being a sugar bomb. It was nuanced, layered, with standout house-made ube and macapuno ice cream.
A Note on Price and Perspective
At about ₱800 per head for a full meal, Azela isn’t a daily lunch stop for most. It’s a special place to mark special occasions, or at least to celebrate life’s small victories and little wins.
Our only gripe? No in-store restroom. You have to step out if you need to use the loo.
Final Thoughts
Azela is not Balay Dako Lite. It’s its own thing—a reflection of the same culinary philosophy but tailored for a different rhythm of life. It’s a restaurant that invites you to slow down a bit, savor the food more thoughtfully, and relish the experience.
In a dining scene often obsessed with fast-paced trends, Azela reminds us of our timeless heritage and offers something far more enduring: a sense of place, a sense of home, and, above all, a sense of pride in Filipino food that doesn’t need to shout to be heard.
